Ethiopia

STOP PRESS
(but first …..how’s my hair???)

Straight up it’s been a long time since my last post, I just want to say that I’m so disappointed in myself for not keeping my blog up to date. I’m sorry for those of you who enjoy following my travels and adventures on this platform but I really struggle to express my feelings and experiences in words via a laptop as well as making the time to actually sit and just do it! I actually felt like giving up !
Anyhow enough with the negative stuff that’s just not me! With some advice and encouragement from a good friend I am now committed to having a renewed outlook with my blog. I am determined to do keep it more up to date with the three W’s. Where I’ve been! What I’ve been doing! and When I was there!
So please read on and I hope you enjoy finding out what I’ve been up to in these crazy times.

Ethiopia…. a country like no other

While it was back in April 2019 the memories of this incredible place are so vivid in my mind, I must admit though as I prepared to enter this country I had mixed emotions. Other travellers I had met expressed different views on what I could expect and while for some the incredible cultures they had seen made for an amazing experience others found passing through Ethiopia more stressful with some kids throwing rocks at them.

Fortunately, again for me things worked out well as they often do when I’m in this sort of situation. I find when I don’t have high expectations for a place or something I’m going to do it usually surprises me and when it came to this landlocked African gem I absolutely fell in love with it and it’s people, I just wish I could’ve spent more time there.

I had applied for an Ethiopian visa while in Sudan which made passport control straight forward and the Carnet De Passage I used helped keep customs easy also. The lack of any fees was also nice change and a bonus for the budget. I entered the country at a little village called Metema, a very crowded and confusing place which did not feel like a border crossing at all. There were lots of parked trucked and the locals were everywhere trying to sell their wares or exchange money, it was pretty hectic. I had been warned to by other overlanders that theft is commonplace in these towns and to watch my gear and possessions on the bike. A bit hard when you need to deal with officials so I flicked a local $5 to watch my bike while I got myself sorted.

I was a bit paranoid about getting insurance organised while I travelled in Ethiopia as I had heard stories of travellers being jailed because they had hit someone on the road. The problem I discovered though is that you can’t buy it at the border. Insurance coverage for travellers can only be purchased in Addis Abbaba which meant I had to travel halfway across the country at my own risk to organise it. Once there you get the coverage (called a Comesa – yellow card insurance) through the Ethiopian Insurance Corporation (EIC) which covers you in many African countries. Similar to the European green card it would be better to plan your route to buy this first, so you don’t need to purchase it for the other countries when you travel through them. I don’t usually enjoy these big cities so once I had my insurance organised I pointed Chillie to the hills and got outa there.

A different world

From the moment I crossed the border I had a feeling I’d entered a completely different world. The unique landscape that passed by me, the people with their so very dark skin and Northern African features which gave them such a unique look. I still believe quite frankly that the Ethiopian woman are some of the most beautiful in the world.

The main roads are paved and in great condition, it’s when you start to get off the beaten track and more remote that off road riding skills are a big benefit. Cars are few and far between once you enter these more rural areas with villages clustered along the roadside. Because of this most locals use the road as a footpath as well as a playground for the kids and other activities. Needless to say I had to keep my speed down and ride with caution which had the advantage of being able to take it all in, the colour, the banter and being privileged to see up close the Ethiopian people go about their regular day. The style of clothing, the way women styled their hair and even the buildings they lived in unique to that area’s deep history, culture and diversity.

Prior to Ethiopia I travelled for a month in the extreme crazy heat of Sudan and it was welcome relief to have some cooler temps due to the 1290 to 4533m elevation in sea level. It was 48c when I crossed the border and by the time I had reached my first bigger city Gondar the temperature had dropped to a cruisy 29c. I immediately got my energy back and could think again, seriously my brain was cooked so I spoilt myself and checked into Gondar Backpackers. A cool fresh breeze, cold beers and the company of some great people was exactly what I needed to clear my head and re energise.

Go Juice

Fuel… can’t do much travel without it huh? Sometimes in this country it’s a real struggle to get any fuel let alone decent stuff. Ethiopia imports it’s supplies from Sudan and there is a distinct lack of it so I needed to become a little resourceful at times which involved asking around (like a tuk tuk driver) for a black market alternative. It actually wasn’t that hard and is similar to what you need to do in Sudan also.

Like any other African country on the East coast tourist attractions were very expensive I thought. Tours and hikes in the National Parks were pretty pricey at around $100 per day and some needed more than one day to complete. While I’m travelling I am on a very tight budget, so for me? I stuck to viewing the world from behind the bars of my precious Chillie mainly sticking to roads less travelled that didn’t attract extra fees.

I love having my own space and the spontaneity of a free camp but I didn’t do any wild camping in Ethiopia because it just didn’t feel right to me. Even in remote areas the moment I stopped in what I thought was a quiet, secluded spot within minutes I was surrounded by locals, there seemed to be people EVERYWHERE! I like to follow my gut and instincts, it’s worked so far so when I did camp it was in an established camp ground where I could have my own area and immerse myself in the stunning nature around me.

Another option I took advantage of was some of the hotel accommodation available, it was pretty cheap by African standards. On average I paid $8-$12 for a single room which sometimes came with an en-suite…..BONUS! The rooms were nothing fancy but heaps nicer than some of the places I stayed in the Middle East. I try to keep to an overall budget of no more than $20 per day and that’s to cover fuel, food and a bed so you see why I try and camp when I can.

Northern Ethiopia

Ok I’m not gunna lie, I suck at sightseeing. It’s mainly due to my strong dislike of overcrowded places but also because of my lack of enthusiasm when it comes to walking. I am fortunate to have a drone so I guess it does some of my walking while giving me a birds eye view of anything scenic.

The Northern region of Ethiopia is the most scenic part of the country. I explored a castle Fasil Ghebbi in Gondar with Raphael a French traveller on a GS I met at the hostel. From the 17th century we both agreed that it was a magnificent piece of architecture and well worth the visit.

Heading North the Siemien mountains are well known as some of the best hikes in the country and a real highlight, people come from all over the world to trek and experience the area for days at a time under the supervision of armed guides which as I mentioned was too pricey for me. If I had wanted to ride into the mountains I would have needed the guide to ride my bike with me on the back ! Needless to say I mainly just stuck to the main roads and admired the view from behind the bars, it was very scenic and an unforgettable ride.

Once I reached a place called Aksum I was fortunate enough to finally cross paths with Lyndon Poskitt ! He was on his way North to Europe to complete the last leg of his round the world journey. During his travels he has competed in rallies on all the continents including the famous Dakar three times ! Lyndon is an absolute legend of a guy and I’m so glad I finally got to meet him. We spent a day exploring local area and attractions, having a nice lunch together while of course looking for fuel. We also had time for a quick pic with the bikes at the Obelisk of Aksum a 4th century pylon monument which stands in the centre of the Northern Stelae Park.

Somewhere I do regret not stopping at is Lalibela underground church. Unfortunately, the cost and the fact my leg was still not up to the hour long walk stopped me from calling there but I was pretty pumped I did happen to see wild baboons for the first time on the road during my ride there.

Awra Amba village

A place I highly recommend visiting is the village of Awra Amba. Founded in 1972 by Ethiopian Zumra Nura with a population of around 500 the local people have a truly extraordinary lifestyle where men, women and children are all considered equal. The community is based around the principles of gender and social equality, respecting women and children’s rights, caring for the elderly and vulnerable, eliminating religious and cultural prejudices and segregation.

Weaving has become the main source of income due to the lack of viable farm land so fabrics are made for themselves and others in their textile factory. The community also has a strong focus on education with a locally built school where kids are encouraged to continue their education into university. One of the things that surprised me there was that the kids wouldn’t take sweets or gifts from me, something I love to do. My guide explained to me that one of the rules for the village is not to accept any gifts or money as it is looked upon as a form of begging. Everyone in the community loves this peaceful lifestyle despite the restrictions like no religion, no alcohol and also girls should marry only after reaching the age of 18, and boys at age of 22 or above.

A chance meeting

Frome here I travelled to Bahir Dar where I met a teenage boy Yilkal while I was checking into my hotel. So it turns out he works washing boats before and after school every day and earning very little money to help support his family, his father had passed away and his mum worked 7 days a week in a restaurant. Between them they were earning just $35 per month and he had very few clothes. When I met him, he had just come out of the lake after washing his clothes. I spent a day with him (he was such a lovely boy) he showed me around and walked me to my hotel so I really wanted to do something for him as a thank you. A few basics from the local supermarket was my way of returning the favour and a friendship was formed.

Southern delights

My travels then took me to the Southern regions famous for their arabica coffee farms. My first stop was at an established camp ground by Lake Langano with it’s beautiful pink and brown tones. It was a stunning place where I was able to get my chef on and cook some amazing pasta while dodging some storms.

My next stop was a place recommended to me Aregash lodge, very nice but expensive. I ended up camping there on the grass for $6 a night and I’m so glad I did. There was a beautiful garden with everything you could imagine, coffee trees, avocados, banana, papaya, mangoes. I had actually never seen coffee beans being grown so that was so cool. Despite my green tent being attacked by a giant ninji turtle there (which was actually hilarious despite the damage) it was a great experience.

Once I was back on the road I decided to buy some coffee beans and try and roast my own, I was in the Arabica region so of course I had to give it a go. I can say from now on I will definitely leave that to the experts as my effort was an epic FAIL ! 2kg of coffee beans wasted.

My last supper

My last stop in this wonderful African country was the village of Metema. I managed to find a small hut for my stay that cost me only $7 per night so my poor tent had a break. I made sure I had a good local feed of Injera, a traditional Ethiopian dish for my last meal so I had a full belly for the next leg of my adventures. Grabbing the hut for accommodation turned out to be a fantastic decision as my pack up morning travels as I headed for the boarder were surrounded by rain.
Whilst riding in the rain isn’t the greatest at times, the gentle splatter on my visor helped my mind to wander over the memories of the last month and what had been an amazing time. The colours, landscapes and the people I saw and met cemented to me that Ethiopia was a country like no other and that I will definitely be back.

In Numbers:

Duration:  6th May – 21st May 2019

Total km’s: 2792km

Map Link

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The “Are We There Yet” World Tour is about more than just me seeing the world on a motorcycle. Throughout my journey I’m raising money for a young disabled child in Poland named Franek. Franek was diagnosed with cerebral palsy (weakness of the entire right side of the body) and he will require constant rehabilitation for the rest of his life. All the money raised will go directly to helping Franek and his family lead as normal a life as possible so please donate  generously:

www.gogetfunding.com/arewethereyet

Check out my videos from Ethiopia!