Sudan

The moment I crossed into Sudan I found myself in the middle of a revolution. The Sudanese people had been protesting against the government for months and as I arrived in the country the army removed the president. The situation became very unstable, people were confused and no one knew what this would lead to. I was aware of the risks, but I decided not to change my plans, I stayed in Sudan for a month so I could experience this beautiful country and witness these amazing times. The Sudanese people are one of the kindest and most peaceful peoples I have come across and throughout all my time in Sudan, I felt safe.

Crossing the border

After my experiences in Egypt, I decided to save myself some struggles and use a fixer at the Sudanese border as well. At the Wadi Halfa border, I met Mazar a fixer who is known and respected in the overland community. Mazar organised all the paperwork within two hours while I was just sitting in the shade without a worry. Of course, it is possible to do it all by yourself but you just need to be aware, not many people at the border speak English so it may take a little bit longer to work things out (in 42 – 48 degree heat). And if you managed to cross the Israeli – Egyptian border in Taba and a Taba stamp is in your passport definitely ask Mazar for help because you may be refused entry into Sudan.

I got my Sudanese visa at the embassy in Cairo which it cost me $150. And these are the fees I paid at Wadi Halfa Border:

• Customs 160 SDG ($3)

• Traffic Insurance 260 SDG ($5)

• Local Tax 100 SDG ($2)

• Entrance Fee 100 SDG ($2)

• 3rd Party Insurance (1 month) 320 SDG ($6.5)

• Mazar’s Fee $30 US

Sudanese Kindness

Mazar invited me to stay at his home for a few nights and for the first of many times I experienced Sudanese hospitality and kindness. The next day after my entry to the country the president was arrested and the borders and airport were closed. We were monitoring the news, trying to work out if it was safe for me to carry on with my journey.

And in between Mazar’s wife and cousin made me feel at home and I joined them for their daily rituals of painting henna and making coffee.

Henna has been a part of Sudan’s social and cultural heritage since it’s earliest ancient civilisation. Traditionally married Sudanese women dye their hands and feet with henna to endear themselves to their husbands and to appear in the public eye as married women who have a family to look after.

Well, for me this works out just fine! Being perceived as married keeps you out of trouble!

There is quite a procedure for making Sudanese coffee. I waited for my cup of coffee for about an hour, curiously watching the whole process. The coffee was roasted, ground and infused with spices during its preparation. It’s strong and thick, just delicious!

You gotta have popcorn with your Sudanese coffee!

After three days I’d decided to continue riding. At that time temperatures in the desert were around 45-48 degrees Celcius, it was the first time in my life that I was riding in such extreme heat. The key is to keep yourself hydrated at all times and do little breaks in the shade, although finding shade in the Sudanese desert was at times a bit challenging…

As you cross Sudan, don’t be shy and engage with the local people because they are the kindest and most honest nation I’ve come across. Due to over 30 years of dictatorship, Sudan was quite an enclosed country and not a tourist destination. There were situations where I couldn’t buy water at the local shops so I just knocked on the doors of a private house and would ask for water. Instantly I was invited into the house to meet the whole family and have a meal with them. I was also offered a bed for the night.

The same thing at the local markets, people would approach asking me if I needed any help and inviting me to their houses. Such kindness and selflessness gave me the best memories of Sudan. So if it happens that you find yourself in this country, try not to rush, go out there and meet the people, spend some time with them and listen to see what their life looks like.

Fuel Shortage

The only problem I faced in Sudan was with fuel or the lack of it. The majority of petrol stations were shut. When you see a line like this, it means they sell fuel, with some people even sleeping in their cars overnight waiting for fuel. Lucky for us foreigners, the people of Sudan are super nice and they let you in at the front so you don’t have to wait. And don’t get me wrong I don’t want to sound like we’re privileged people… but this is a part of Sudanese culture and hospitality, they let us go first because they want us to feel welcome, plus they realise for people who are not used to living in such temperatures there is a big possibility of us getting heat stroke while waiting in the sun and heat for hours.

On a good note, Sudan has the cheapest fuel in the world I reckon. I was filling up my bike (23L) for $2.5! A cup of coffee in Australia costs more!

And in terms of roads. Sudanese roads are generally in very good condition…

…except maybe this stretch close to the Ethiopian border…

…and this bit! Where did you go road?

Wild Camping in Sudan

There’s only one option for camping when you’re crossing the Sudanese desert, it’s along the Nile River where you can find shade amongst the trees (otherwise you’ll fry yourself to death).

It’s incredible to see how the desert changes into a lush and green jungle when there’s water around.

I camped along the Nile on a few occasions and felt safe. Sometimes local farmers would just wave from the distance and wouldn’t approach me at all and sometimes they would come around and look at how I set up my tent and have a little chat. For the very first time I didn’t mind being watched, I just felt so safe with them.

Pyramids

Sudan has very little tourist infrastructure but as you’re crossing this country there are two attractions you must see. The pyramids!

Sudanese pyramids are not as well known and as the big pyramids of Giza, so with no crowds around, they make a very special sight.

The pyramids of Jebel Barkal were the first ones I visited. These pyramids were built around 2,500 years ago as tombs for the Nubian kings and queens.

I was very surprised that the site was not fenced off or secured, they are just standing on the side of the road like, ain’t no big deal! You can even camp next to them if you are able to stand the heat.

And on the way out I got bogged! Bit embarrassing but what you gonna do. I guess the worst sand is the sand you don’t expect. So I needed a little push and these locals were happy to help. This is what I mean, the Sudanese people are such a helpful and honest nation.

The second location of pyramids is near Atbara.

They are called The Forgotten Pyramids of Meroë. Meroë is an ancient city along the eastern bank of the River Nile with more than 200 Nubian pyramids dotted all over the place.

The tops of the pyramids were destroyed by treasure hunters in the past and now they’re slowly being restored.

Khartoum

Khartoum is extremely hot! I will always remember the day I arrived in Khartoum and nearly died. My gauge showed 50 degrees Celsius in the traffic and soon after I ran out of fuel in the middle of an intersection. I nearly suffered heatstroke in the process, but it’s lucky I’m tough so I’m still standing 😉

Before I entered Sudan I was in touch with a local adv rider called Mohammad who turned out to be my lifesaver. Mohammad has got me out of trouble on a couple of occasions, including arranging fuel over the phone from the black market on the day I nearly died. Mohammad is a legend!

Thanks to Mohammad I got to meet the cool kids of Sudan! It’s way too hot to ride during the day in Khartoum so the moment the sun goes down the local riders catch up for a coffee near the Nile.

I tried to save some money because accommodation in Khartoum is not cheap. The cheapest hotels and apartments go for about $35-50 a night and the only hostel in the city was closed for renovation. But you can set up a tent at the Sailing Club on the Nile River for $6. The facilities were good enough but the heat was unbearable, I only lasted 3 nights camping there.

The way out

After a month in Sudan, the heat finally got to me. I was constantly tired and riding the bike became torture. From Khartoum to the border is about 550km which took me a couple of days to ride. The key is to get up super early and be finished riding by midday, but I learnt that the hard way!

The Sudanese – Ethiopian border crossing in Matema was a bit confusing. Basically you have to find the customs and emigration offices in between the trucks and little shops, but the locals can point them out to you with no problem. The paperwork was pretty straight forward so no fixer is needed to help you out.

Sudan has been a one of a kind experience, I’m thankful that I got to wittiness it all in these special times of revolution. I hope from now on things will only get better in Sudan and the Sudanese people will finally live a peaceful life and their human rights will be respected.

In Numbers:

Duration:  11th April – 6th May 2019

Total km’s: 1997km

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The “Are We There Yet” World Tour is about more than just me seeing the world on a motorcycle. Throughout my journey I’m raising money for a young disabled child in Poland named Franek. Franek was diagnosed with cerebral palsy (weakness of the entire right side of the body) and he will require constant rehabilitation for the rest of his life. All the money raised will go directly to helping Franek and his family lead as normal a life as possible so please donate  generously:

www.gogetfunding.com/arewethereyet

Check out my videos from Sudan!